Whilst there was nothing actually wrong with the wheel bearings on my 1971 Glenelg one of the grease seals was leaking.
The job is easy enough and can be tackled by anyone with a little mechanical skill. Assuming that you've already got the caravan jacked up safely and the wheel off just pry off the grease cap, remove the split pin and undo the large nut.
Then (if you've released the handbrake  ) remove the outer bearing and it's washer, making sure that you don't drop it on the floor and cover it in grit 
The hub/drum can then be slid off the stub axle, taking care not to damage the threads. |
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| Once that's off you can inspect the brake shoes and stub axle, |
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| If the part of the axle that the seal runs on is worn you can remove it and turn it around. On most vehicle axles this is part of the stub itself and if worn the axle is scrap. On the B&B chassis however it is a separate bush that slides over the shaft. It's not obvious at first but careful cleaning will reveal it and gentle prizing with a sharp screwdriver between the bush and backplate should slide it off. |
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| There was actually nothing wrong with the bearings other than a leaky seal but I removed them anyway to get the numbers off them for future reference. |
On the whole oil seals are cheap, readily available and very easy to change so why take the risk of contaminating my brake shoes thought I, so I removed the seal to measure it. In retrospect I should have left it, for the number written on the metal case tells all.
W. 256162.37.R4 translates into 256 or 2.56" = 2.9/16". 162 is 1.62" or 1.5/8" and .37 is 3/8" wide, the R4 at the end signifying 'metal case'.
Armed with all this info and a computer you'd think I'd have found a seal without difficulty, not a chance, two hours of searching last night failed to turn up a seal, sometime you just need to speak to 'one who knows' on the phone 
The bearings on these chassis are far larger than any modern day company accountant would allow  and I suspect that in their day failure was rare if greased annually.
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Timken the company who provided these bearings invented the 'taper roller bearing' and are renowned for their quality. Hence the price of them which is about four times more than a modern day metric one. |
Parts where supplied by;
Bearing Station Ltd
Unit 20
Eastfield Business Park
Newark Road South
Glenrothes
Fife
KY7 4NS
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Tel: 0844 335 6153
Fax: 01592 773390
Email - sales@bearingstation.co.uk
Website - http://www.bearingstation.co.uk
Business Hours
Monday to Friday 8.00am -5.30pm
Saturday 9.00am -12.00pm,
Sunday Closed |
| Inner bearing = Bearing Station Stock Timken LM48548-LM48510 Tapered Roller Bearing. |
| Outer bearing =
Bearing Station Stock Timken LM67048-LM67010 Tapered Roller Bearing. |
| Oil Seal =
Bearing Station stock Imperial Rubber Oil Seals Part No OilSeal25616237. |
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| The picture on the left is fitting the outer bearing using a special aluminium drift but anything that presses evenly on the outer race will do. The right hand one is the inner bearing fitted, greased and ready for the seal. |
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| The picture on the left shows the old and new seals and the one on the right drifting the seal in with the same tool available on Ebay = Bearing & Seal installer/ Driver Set. T442200 though I'm sure mine was half that price. Mind you it was a long time ago |
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| Here's the new seal fitted and it's important not to drift it in too far, just flush with the edge of the drum is fine, any more and the seal will not mate with the bush that it runs on. |
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| Once that was assembled the hub and drum were slipped on to the stub axle, the castellated nut and split pin fitted and the brakes adjusted. |
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All was fine in the brake shoe department, a little light rust was sanded off the drums and a bit of copper grease applied to the moving parts was all that was required.
The brakes are easy enough to adjust, you just tighten them up with a screwdriver then back them off till they stop binding.
Now the slightly tricky bit  you will more than likely find that with the wheel bearing play gone that the split pin hole does not line up. To remedy this DO NOT TIGHTEN the nut any more, remove it and do one of two things. Carefully file or grind the base of the nut until it does line up or just add thin washers or a combination of both. |
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After I turned my attention to the door lock on our caravan, we only have one key and a spare was proving impossible to find. Fortunately I had a spare Land Rover barrel and key which I modified to fit into the caravan lock  |
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| Paul's Landrover and 1971 Thomson T-Line Glenelg on the ferry heading for the mainland! |
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| Read about the trials and tribulations of an accidental crofter in Paul 's blog about Life at the End of the Road.on Raasay. |
